1981 18' Century Resorter The motorbox -- page 4
"It needs a little work, but what boat doesn't?
Throughout this website, a click on a photo will probably yield a larger image. (3/13/12) -- All ply edges on motorbox have been epoxied. It's about ready for the upholstery guy. (If I can find him. A wealthy car collector from TX flew him down there for a week -- to install a convertible top on a "big bucks" '57 Olds convertable. He was scheduled to return today. -- He did.) All the side panels have been upholstered. (Click here for a photo made with poor light. Actual color is much richer, IMHO.) (Click here for truer color.) Anyway, I've made the fore and aft deck panels. They look good. Think I'll go with vinyl on them.
By the way, this is where those mooring line stowage hooks are installed (two on each side): Another "BTW:" New saw base cabinet to replace factory-original legs. This box on castors will replace legs. Castors = 2 locking swivels, 2 fixed. The saw has a good sawdust trap system, but shoots sawdust out back via a shop-vac size pipe. Box will sport an outlet switched from "front" side, controlling vac power. Box will also feature holders for rip fence, two crosscut guides and extra blades. I'm getting used to using the new saw, but finding a few design flaws. Saw's motor is much smaller, and much more powerful than my old saw's. (But it was not a saw motor, as some may remember.) I've decided to not collect sawdust or wood scraps in base. Will store "skill" saw and jig saw there instead. The white switch controls power to outlet on "back" -- where vacuum is plugged in. Notice how rip fence features a "shelf" that "flips" into place when needed. The fence is gear driven at both front and back.
BACK TO THE MOTORBOX:
Another pretty good web page by Grant MacLaren
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