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1972 Correct Craft Skier MacSkier
Click photo for larger image. Tank measures 10-1/8" x 10=1/8" x 47". (As of 3/16/14, it has been cleaned and "sloshed" and painted black at radiator shop. It's been painted white by me. See later photos below.)
Click photo for larger image. The photo below is looking aft on port side of MacSkier. Looks like a good place to mount a water separater/fuel filter.
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Click photo for larger image.
11/17/13 John Burmeister (CCF) says: It looks identical to the tank that was in both my 69 and 70 Mustangs. It is Made by Tempo and called a Long Cruise. The hold downs look the same as well, although the piece of plywood and bolts look newer than the rest or the bracket. Here is mine after it came back from a rebuild. The patches are where they opened it up to sandblast the inside.
My reply: John,
Very informative. Thank you very much.
I'm now convinced it's an original.
Inside looks clean. I may add your pics and comments to my website -- unless you object. Mine has some metal plates "backing up" some modifications, such as swim platform (Home-made, I think) and prop shaft strut.
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Now preparing to pull the engine. We'll cover that elsewhere.
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BTW, About 20 years ago, we replaced a steel tank in a '73 Century Resorter with a "plastic" tank. It's been trouble-free ever since. It looks a lot like this one.
I've ordered, have received, and will install a fuel filter/water separator.
Mark says "West End Radiator" near here does good work on fuel tanks. I've met with them and will have them clean and coat my tank.
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(1/30/14) Pulled and drained the tank today:
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Here is what I found when I disassembled the fuel line's pickup and feed; that "plumber's nightmare" of fittings (above) will be eliminated. The pickup tube and 90 degree fitting will be retained. A functioning anti-syphon valve (1/4' pipe, 3/8" barb) will be installed. (Looked to me like an existing valve was "punched out.") Hope to find a new anti-syphon valve in brass. (Didn't -- settled for aluminum.) Why? (you ask) . . . On a boat's fuel tank there is a tube (see photo) that goes to the bottom of the tank with a anti-siphon valve on top. A flex line attaches to the barb of the valve. Situation: No (or punched out by DPO) anti-siphon valve. Tank is full. The path of the flex line from the tank to the fuel pump runs along the hull below the level of the fuel in the tank. If the line is broken below the level of the fuel in the tank, fuel will be syphoned out of the tank into the bilge. Result: gallons of fuel in bilge. With the anti-siphon valve in place, if the breaks or fails, the fuel in the line may leak out but since the valve prevents fuel from flowing out of the tank air will enter the line and break the siphon. Result: an ounce or two of fuel in the bilge.
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Click above for larger image.
Click above for larger image.
Tank measures 10" x 10" x 47" for a capacity of 20 gallons, 18+ gallons usable. The filler tube is 1.5" in diameter, located on a center 2.75" from starboard side wall and 3.25" from aft wall.
Tank is by Tempo Products, phone Boyd Welding, 2811 NW 8th Pl, Ocala, FL 34475, Phone:(352) 447-2405 will fabricate the tank out of aluminum for $375 plus $48 sender, plus shipping. I've decided to have the tank's interior cleaned and coated at West County Radiator right here in Ballwin. It's there now (2/6/14).
Click above for larger image. The guys at West County Radiator say don't use webbing. They suggest getting some ribbed rubber mats, cut in strips to put under tank. Ribbing to let the bottom of tank dry out, delaying rust, etc. That say the tank should now last 20 more years. Picked up tank today, 2/7/14: 
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Found some great ribbed matting for under tank. (No photo.) 
Click above for larger image. Filter/separator will be mounted next to fuel tank, port side, under rear deck. The "in" and "out" barbed "90 degree" brass fittings will be 1/4" pipe thread to 3/8" barb. (I'm replacing DPO's rubber fuel line from pump to carb with one -- probably steel -- made by Mark S.) I'm thinking of adding a "90" to the vent tube, at the tank. It'll need a shortened 1/2" barbed fitting. (Tube measures .555" ID.) 4/13/14 -- The tank today, after cleaning, coating and a bit of paint on its ends, top and front:
Click above for larger image. 4-23-14 -- Before installing the tank, I will re-route the vent line. In its "original?" run, it makes a tight turn at the tank end. It will be cleaner if the 1/2 inch fuel line has a 90 degree fitting where it connects to the tank. Here's a "mock-up" using a plastic barb fitting. (Brass fitting will have to be shortened, so I made this of plastic to check fit before cutting the expensive fitting -- which I haven't found yet.)
Click above for larger image. Looks like I'll need
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